Bartlett to Hanover

So, coming out of Bartlett was a blast. Around 5 or 6 I decided to hitch a ride back to the trailhead since I still needed to do about 3 miles that day to get to Ethan Pond Shelter. I could see that the sky was just basically black and blue the way I would be heading, and I was looking forward to some fun. I got a hitch basically right before it began to pour buckets. It was pouring rain, and I really couldn't pick out where the trailhead was to the guy I was getting a hitch from. Since he was in a hurry, and since I had no idea where the AT was, I got dropped off about a mile from where the trail intersected the road. At that time it was starting to thunder and lightning, but I luckily made it to the trailhead before the lightning got too close. I remember hearing thunder that day and every time I did I would throw my hiking poles so I didn't get electricuted, like it would actually make any difference.

Since it was around 50 degrees outside, pouring rain, and the weather report called for 30-50 mile per hour wind gusts on the ridges, I decided to take a zero day at the shelter. I was inside my zero degree sleeping bag all that day, trying to recover from the first few days of the Whites. It was probably a good decision on my part, since I heard later that a north bound thru hiker had second stage hypothermia on Franconia Ridge that day and had to be helped down the mountain to Greenleaf hut.

The next day I pulled a 12 mile day to Galehead hut. The weather was much improved from the previous day, and I got some great views from the top of Mt. Guyot. I could see all of Franconia Ridge and Garfield Mountain, and thought to myself that it wouldn't be that bad of a climb the next day. When I got to Galehead hut, around 3pm, the weather began to get bad. I was going to go over Franconia Ridge but decided to stay at Galehead, which was a great decision. One of the tourists at the hut had overbooked his reservations, so 2 other thru hikers and I got to sleep in the bunk house and eat with the guests. It was amazing to have real, warm food for a change and a warm bed for the night.

I pulled a 16 mile day over Franconia Ridge the next day. Though there was a good bit of elevation change going up Mt. Garfield and Lafayette, it did not seem like it was that difficult of a climb. When I got to the top of Lafayette and Lincoln, I had amazing views of the ridges all around me and the deep valleys below me. The only thing I didn't like about Franconia Ridge was that there were tons of people up there day hiking, and it really is a different experience when you are alone at the top of an amazing mountain (like I was on top of Saddleback Ridge) compared to when there is people all around. It can be kind of annoying. I did work for stay that night at Lonesome Lake Hut, the last hut I stayed at through the Whites. Thank god.

The next day from Lonesome Lake I had to hike over Kinsman Mountain. It was a good 1500 feet of elevation change within a couple miles, so it was a challenging climb. I was feeling quite lethargic and kind of ill that day, so it took me forever to get up Kinsman. Though that part of the day sucked, the worst was to come. The next seven miles from Eliza Brook Shelter to the road to Lincoln, NH were a constant up and down for seven miles. Though the terrain in hindsight probably wasn't that tough, it is psychologically draining to know that you are gaining elevation just to go back down again. Those seven miles were probably the most frustrated I had been since the 100 mile wilderness, and it was most likely because I wanted to get into town and have a nice place to sleep that night.

When I got to the road to Lincoln, N.H. 112, I called Chet West, who allows thru hikers to stay at his home for a donation, barter, or work for stay. He really did not ask for much out of us, and so I stayed there the night, took a zero day and stayed there the following night, and just cleaned the hiker bathroom for work for stay. It was a great place to zero because it was quite during the day and I could rest.

After Lincoln, I had just one more mountain to climb before I was out of the Whites--Mt. Moosilauke. The first mile and a half from N.H. 112 gains a solid 2000 feet in elevation, and then another 1000 feet is gained over the next 2 miles to the top of the mountain. I took my time to get to the top, and once I got there, it was amazing. The top of Moosilauke is an alpine meadow, and 360 degree views can be seen from the top on a clear day. I could see all of Franconia Ridge and the Whites from there, with Mt. Washington in the distance. I could also see the Green Mountains in southern Vermont, where I will be heading soon. Chet said that, apparently on a clear day, you can see the heat waves off of the Atlantic ocean in the distance. I really didn't notice that, but it gives you an idea of the views from this mountain. It was probably my favorite of the trip so far. I hung out on the top of Moosilauke for a couple of hours because it was so nice, and covered a mere 9 miles that day though I was planning 16, but it was worth it.

The next day I pulled a 16 mile day from Jeffers Brook Shelter to Hexacuba Shelter. The terrain was much more mellow compared to the Whites. Going up Mt. Cube, I caught my first glimpse of wildlife since the 100 mile wilderness. As I was hiking up the trail, around 6 pm, 10 feet in front of me four ferret looking creatures came walking across the trail in a perfect line. They saw me as they came across the trail. The front two bolted across to the other side of the trail, the last one in the line bolted back to the side that he came from, and the other one just stood there and didn't move. I just stood there and stared at it for a while. It was pretty cute. After a minute or so, he tried to scurry away, and I kind of followed him for a bit, then he took off running. I learned the next day that it was a weasel, and that these cute furry creatures are rather vicious. They basically go into mice holes, and eat the mice while they are sleeping. Since there are numerous mice in the A.T. shelters, I really wish I could carry around the weasel as a pet out here. That night, as I mentioned before, I stayed in Hexacuba shelter, which was probably one of the coolest shelters I have stayed in on the trail. It is shaped like a hexagon, and was very clean without any mice or anything.

The next day, I went up Smarts Mountain which was a pretty nice climb. At the top of Smarts, there is an old Firewarden's Cabin that the DOC (Dartmouth Outing Club) maintains as an A.T. shelter. I hung out here for a while and took a nap after lunch. Also on top of Smarts is a Fire Tower, about 20-30 feet high, that offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. I went up the steps of the Fire Tower and there were some great views to be had. That night, I stayed in Trapper John shelter, which was the most mice infested shelter on the trail so far. They were crawling over me so bad that I took my sleeping pad and bag outside and slept on the ground.

From Trapper John shelter, I pulled about a 17 mile day into Hanover, NH. The terrain was the nicest I have seen since the 100 mile wilderness. Hanover is home to Dartmouth college, and is a very nice town. I got to stay in one of the frat houses on campus last night thankfully. Today I will be going to the Hanover Co-op to get some food and checking out the outfitters in town to try to find a lightweight sleeping bag for the warm weather, and then hopefully sending my bulky 0 degree sleeping bag home. I will then be heading out to cross the New Hampshire/Vermont border and doing 5 miles to the next shelter, and begin my 3rd state of this trip.